How do I get squirrels out of my attic?
Getting squirrels out of your attic takes two steps: removal and exclusion — trapping alone doesn't work because new squirrels find the same opening within days. The urgency is real: squirrels chew electrical wiring, and chewed insulation on live wires is one of the leading causes of attic fires. Most jobs cost $400–$1,200 depending on entry points and damage.
Fresh gnaw marks at the entry point (pale, unweathered wood) mean the squirrel is actively using it right now. Gray, weathered wood at a hole means the problem may be older than you think — check the attic for damage before assuming it's new.
Signs, damage, and what the fix involves
| Cause | How to tell | The fix | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Entry hole at roofline (chewed fascia or soffit) | Visible hole 2–4 inches wide with pale, fresh-chewed wood edges; sometimes insulation pulled out | Squirrels must be removed first, then the hole sealed with heavy-gauge steel mesh or sheet metal — wood alone gets chewed through again | $400–$800 (trapping + single entry seal) |
| Multiple entry points or full attic access | Sounds throughout the attic, not just one corner; multiple gnawed areas visible on roofline inspection | Full perimeter exclusion — all gaps sealed, one-way exit device at primary hole; takes 1–2 weeks to confirm all squirrels are out | $700–$1,200 |
| Chewed wiring | Electrician finds chewed wire insulation in attic; flickering lights; tripped breakers with no other cause | Electrician must inspect and repair any damaged wiring after squirrels are removed — this is a separate cost from wildlife removal | $200–$800+ (electrician, separate) |
| Nest in attic insulation | Large pile of leaves, insulation fibers, and shredded material in a corner of the attic | Remove nest material after squirrels are gone; check surrounding insulation for compression damage and urine soaking | $300–$1,500 (insulation repair, if needed) |
| Squirrels in walls | Scratching sounds inside walls, not just overhead; sounds travel down from attic entry | More complex removal — may require opening the wall if squirrel gets stuck or dies; exclusion still the priority | $500–$1,500 |
Before you call anyone
- Walk your roofline and look for entry points: holes in soffits, gaps where the fascia board meets the roof deck, damaged drip edge, or an area where a tree branch comes close to the roof. Squirrels almost always enter through a physical gap, not through shingles.
- Listen for timing: squirrel activity in the attic is loudest at dawn and again mid-morning — they leave to forage and return. Raccoons thud at night. If you're hearing fast, light scurrying at sunrise, it's almost certainly squirrels.
- Check the attic with a flashlight before the wildlife company visits — note any droppings (small, oval, scattered — not in one latrine like raccoons), nesting material, and whether you can see daylight coming through any gaps from inside.
- Trim any tree branch that overhangs or comes within 8 feet of your roofline — squirrels jump from branches to roof edges. This won't solve an active infestation but prevents future ones.
Call a pro when…
- You see or hear squirrels in the attic — removal and exclusion should happen together, not as separate steps weeks apart
- You have any unexplained electrical issues (flickering lights, tripped breakers, burning smell from outlets) after a known or suspected squirrel infestation — call an electrician same day
- The entry point is on a second story or near the roofline — safe exclusion sealing at height is not a DIY job
- You've tried trapping yourself and the same squirrel (or a new one) keeps coming back — the entry point hasn't been sealed
DIY trapping vs. calling a pro
DIY live trapping works for the one squirrel you catch — it does nothing for the entry point, which means the next squirrel moves in within days. For a one-story home with a single obvious entry point, a confident DIYer can trap and then seal the hole with hardware cloth (not wood, not foam) after confirming the animal is out. For anything with multiple entry points, second-story access, or suspected wiring damage, a licensed wildlife company is the right call — the cost of a house fire from chewed wiring far exceeds any wildlife removal bill. Most full-service squirrel jobs run $400–$1,200 and include a warranty on the sealed entry points.
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Related questions
How do I know if squirrels are still in my attic?
Go to the attic at dusk and watch the entry point from outside — you'll see squirrels exit before dark if they're still active. You can also leave a light piece of paper or flour at the entry point; fresh disturbance in the morning confirms activity. If sounds have stopped completely for more than a week, they may have left on their own, but seal the entry anyway.
Can squirrels damage my home's wiring?
Yes, and it's the most serious risk of a squirrel infestation. Squirrels chew constantly to keep their teeth worn down — wire insulation is a common target. The National Fire Protection Association has linked rodent wire chewing to a meaningful percentage of undetermined-cause house fires. After any squirrel infestation, have an electrician inspect accessible attic wiring, especially near the nest site.
How long does squirrel exclusion take?
The physical sealing takes a few hours, but exclusion devices are typically left in place for 5–14 days to ensure all squirrels have exited before the final gap is permanently sealed. Rushing the seal-up risks trapping a squirrel inside.
Will squirrels come back after removal?
Not to the same entry point if it's properly sealed with steel mesh or sheet metal. Wood, foam, and caulk will be re-chewed. A new squirrel from outside can find a different gap in the roofline, which is why full-perimeter exclusion — sealing all potential entry points, not just the obvious one — is the only lasting fix.