Why is my oven not heating up?
An oven that won't heat or won't reach temperature is most often a weak or failed igniter on gas ovens ($150 – $300 repaired) or a burned-out bake element on electric ovens ($150 – $300 repaired). These are the most common oven repairs in the country — both are straightforward, well-priced jobs with wide parts availability.
Gas and electric ovens fail differently: a gas oven that glows orange but doesn't ignite or takes 10+ minutes to preheat almost always has a weakening igniter. An electric oven where the bottom gets no warmth but the broiler still works almost certainly has a failed bake element — you can often see the break in the element coil by looking inside.
Most likely causes
Weak or failed igniter (gas ovens)
$150 – $300How to tellGas oven glows orange at the bottom but doesn't ignite, or takes 10–15 minutes to reach temperature; may ignite eventually but cycle won't maintain temperature; bake mode fails but broiler still works
The fixReplace the igniter — the most common gas oven repair. The igniter both lights the gas and holds the gas valve open; when it weakens, the valve never fully opens.
Burned-out bake element (electric ovens)
$150 – $300How to tellElectric oven produces no bottom heat; broiler still works normally; you may see a visible burn mark, blister, or break in the coil element at the bottom of the oven
The fixReplace the bake element — it typically pulls forward after removing 2 screws and disconnecting 2 wires. A fairly accessible DIY repair.
Burned-out broil element (electric ovens, no broiler)
$150 – $300How to tellElectric oven reaches temperature but broil function completely fails; element at top of oven looks broken or has visible burn marks
The fixReplace the broil element — same access pattern as the bake element but at the top of the cavity
Temperature sensor or thermostat failed
$150 – $250How to tellOven heats but never reaches the set temperature (consistently 25–75°F low); food takes much longer than recipes expect; not just one type of heat mode
The fixReplace the oven temperature sensor (a thin probe that clips into the back wall of the oven) — test with a multimeter before ordering a replacement
Control board or ignition module failure
$200 – $450How to tellOven shows correct temperature on display but produces no heat in any mode; igniter doesn't even glow; clicking from the igniter module but no glow follows
The fixReplace the ignition module (gas) or control board (electric) — diagnose only after simpler components are ruled out
Try this first (before you pay anyone)
- For gas ovens: look at the bottom of the oven during preheat. You should see the igniter glow bright orange-white within 90 seconds and the burner ignite with a blue flame. If the igniter glows dull orange for several minutes without igniting, it's drawing too little current to open the gas valve — it needs replacement even though it appears to 'work'.
- For electric ovens: look at the bake element (the coil at the bottom) right after turning the oven on. It should begin glowing red within 2–3 minutes. If it stays dark, look closely for a visible crack, blister, or burnt spot on the coil — that's the failure point and the element needs replacement.
- Run your oven on Broil only and see if the top element heats normally. If broil works but bake doesn't (electric), the bake element is the problem. If neither broil nor bake works (electric), the issue may be a control board or power supply.
- Check the circuit breaker for electric ranges — electric ovens use a 240V double-breaker. If one leg trips, the oven display may work normally while the heating elements get no power.
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Call a pro when…
- It's a gas oven and you smell gas at any point — stop, ventilate, and call immediately
- The igniter glows but the gas doesn't ignite — the gas valve itself may need replacement, which requires a licensed gas appliance tech
- Both bake and broil elements fail at the same time on an electric oven — this points to a control board or wiring harness issue, not the elements themselves
- The oven trips the breaker when it tries to heat — there's a short in the heating circuit that needs diagnosis before the element is replaced
Repair or replace?
Ovens and ranges last about 15 years — longer than most appliances. An igniter or bake element replacement at $150–$300 on an oven under 12 years old is a strong yes — these repairs are inexpensive relative to oven replacement ($700–$2,500 new for a quality range). Past 13–15 years, apply the 50% rule: if the repair quote exceeds half the replacement cost of a comparable range, replace. A control board replacement on a 14-year-old oven that's already had an element fail is a classic case where replacement is the smarter long-term decision.
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Related questions
Why does my gas oven glow but not heat up?
The igniter in a gas oven does two jobs: it glows to light the gas, and it draws enough current to hold the gas valve open. When an igniter weakens with age, it still glows but doesn't draw enough current to open the valve fully — so gas flow is restricted or blocked. You'll see the glow for several minutes with no flame. The fix is a new igniter, not a new valve.
How can I tell if my electric oven bake element is bad?
Look inside the oven at the coil element on the floor of the cavity. If you see a visible crack, dark burn mark, or blistered spot on the coil, that element is failed. If it looks intact, turn the oven on bake and watch the element — it should begin glowing red within 2–3 minutes. If it stays completely dark, it's failed internally even without visible damage.
How much does it cost to fix an oven that won't heat?
An igniter replacement on a gas oven runs $150–$300 including parts and labor. A bake element replacement on an electric oven runs $150–$300. A temperature sensor replacement runs $150–$250. Control board or gas valve work runs $200–$450. Diagnostic visits run $75–$150 and are typically credited toward the repair.
Is it safe to use my oven if it's not heating correctly?
For electric ovens: a failed element means no heat, not a safety hazard — you can use the stovetop normally. For gas ovens: if the igniter clicks repeatedly without lighting, or you smell gas when the oven is on, stop using it and ventilate the kitchen. A gas oven that attempts to light but fails after multiple tries can accumulate gas in the cavity — a safety hazard. Have it serviced before using it again.